Singapore

There are two things to do in Singapore: shopping and eating and today, I did both.  Honestly, it does seem like Singapore is one lavish mall after another - huge malls with every designer you ever heard about and then some that you haven't.  The prices are very high.  Although I see lots of people, I don't really see any shopping bags.

I started the day by wandering down to the Budda Tooth Relic Temple.  There was a service going on, and it was really incredible - in the room of 100 buddas.  Each alcove have a budda, but the hands were in different positions.  

After the temple, I headed off the Raffles Hotel.  Everyone said, you HAVE to go to Raffles and have a Singpore Sling.  So I went to Raffles, and it is a beautiful old hotel.  I did not want a $30 Singapore Sling at 10 am, so instead I went to Tang's bakery in Raffles and had a pistachio/cranberry croissant, and it was very tasty.

Then I hit the malls.  They were crazy; there are no straight lines - just nooks and crannies.  I decided I would do no more that 2 malls and that is exactly what I did.  Nothing really tempted me.  I purchased an umbrella because it was POURING down rain and some face cleanser that I cannot get in the UK. 

Then I had a manicure and pedicure - at the same time - at a place called Snails, which I thought was very funny for a manicure place, but was highly recommended by my book.  Having two people work on your fingers and toes was sort of overwhelming, and I responded by nearly falling asleep.  Two late nights are catching up to me.

It was still pouring so I went to a hotel to catch a cab.  There was a nasty lady there who's job it was to make sure that people like me didn't stand in the taxi queue.  She asked me if I was staying there and I looked her right in the eye and said yes and she said what is your, room number, I told her it was 224 and then she said where are you going and I said Chinatown, and she hurumphed and said okay then - what kind of a job is that?

Good thing I did too because my taxi driver was awesome.  He was super chatty and very impressed that I was staying at the Scarlet Hotel in Chinatown; he was born right down the street.  The Scarlet Hotel is very interesting running a block on a hill so the hallway mirrors the hill and slopes fairly dramatically.  I suspect some revellers tonight will find this funny.

I told him I was going to the food street for dinner as I plan to eat this way each day - it's THE way to eat in Singapore.  He says you must not eat on the street and instead should go all the way down the street and take an escalator up and you'll find hundreds of vendors - that's where all the local people eat and it's half the price.  He'd eaten there the night before - he gave me the directions 3 times and said do you got, really got it?  

I got it.

So at 1930, I headed through the food street to the end, and there was this large parking structure, and sure enough there was an escalator - so on I got.  At the top, there were hundreds of vendors serving food, and there were hundreds of people eating.  You go to a vendor, get what you want and then pick a seat.  Sounds like a food court, and it is really.

I wandered around a long time looking at all of the food.  I was the only white person in the joint.  My wandering around was causing a stir, so I finally picked a place and got dumplings and homemade ramen with a beer for $3.  She asked if I wanted chili - I did and then I ate it.  I ate all my noodles with my chopsticks.  I was awesome.

After this was gone, I decided I could still eat; so I went back to a booth that had had a really long line - all they sold was chicken and rice.  My taxi driver had mentioned chicken and rice and given all of the incredible smells and dishes it was hard to imagine why this was the ONLY stall with a line.  So I got in it.  The owners tried to ignore me for a little while, but then when I refused to leave, they gave me a plate of rice with chicken for $2.50.  

It was so good - I wish I could explain why, but I cannot. Unfortunately, before I took my first bite, I dropped my chopsticks on the floor.  I picked them up and scooped in my first bite and thought - it's good to challenge your immune system once in a while.

When I returned my tray to the bottom of the pile - all 3 in the stall (I am guessing sisters and a husband) sang, Thanks Lah!  I guess I'd earned my chicken rice.

Who would have wanted to miss this...

I sit down for a well-deserved and needed breakfast out on the patio.  Sanur has a white beach and lots of it.  I am waiting for my coffee, and I go what is behind that post, so I move my head and see...well, it's the tallest mountain/volcano in Bali.

The water is shallow and there are all sorts of people, swimming, fishing, just sitting in the water and enjoying - and most interestingly, they are Balinese.  Well mostly, Balinese with some Japanese thrown in for good measure.  

The beach is covered with coral pieces.  I had myself some sushi at Minami, which had a lot of good reviews and I'd never managed to make it over there when I was in Ubud - bonus!

After lunch, Oka picked me up and asked me what I wanted to do.  We went through our options and agreed the orchid garden.  Oka got me in and then left me with a guide - who was extremely interesting and made my visit.  

He's at university for Botany, and he has a whole routine as we went through the garden.  His English is perfect - he learned by listening to music. He took a lot of pictures of me and honestly knew how to use my camera better than I did.  

Afterward, I wandered around the park on my own and then sat down in the cafe for a water.  He came over and we had a long chat.

There was this gorgeous little girl in the cafe - I mentioned her, and he said she was part Indian and then he launched into this whole explanation about how the Balinese view beauty.  He says they covet light skin and dimples.  You can only be pretty if you have light skin and she didn't.  She had a nice smile so he said she could be nice, but not pretty, and just because you have a nice smile, it doesn't mean you are nice, unless you have dimples.  

It made me wonder how we have managed to convince the world light skin is best - it does explain the girl's fascination with my ultra-white skin during my manicure in Ubud last week...I find this whole concept sort of depressing.

After the orchid garden, we went to Jamberon Beach and then the airport.  I am here very early, but I convinced Oka I could entertain myself at Starbucks and so far, I have.  

I also reassured him AGAIN that there are lots worse places to be stuck an extra day then in Bali - besides, it's saved me a whole day burning up my plastic in Singapore - yeehaw!

It was just supposed to be a ride to the airport

Last day in Bali, I had some big plans of walk on the beach, swim in the pool and facial - I know my life, right?

The hotel had an airport transportation service as part of the room, but I also had this set up through Oka.  So Oka was supposed to come and get me at 6 pm for my 9:30 pm flight, simple?

At 1730, I headed downstairs and settled my bill and got my bags brought down.  I was told that Oka would be late because there was a traffic accident on the road.  I sat in the lobby and waited and got devoured by mosquitos - covered in red welts.

Oka was late, but not that bad maybe 20 minutes.  We had a new driver that disappeared for about 10 minutes - Oka was getting frustrated.  We finally get everyone in the van, and we are off - it's about 15-20 miles to the airport.  

Knowing the traffic was bad, they looked for a new route, which involved taking a paved path through a rice paddy that was not designed for a van and had big bollards up at the entry and exit to prevent vehicles from getting onto it.  It took some very careful driving to get on the 'road' and then once we were on it - well, there were piles of bricks, people, mopeds...

Then they decided to drive though Simenak - which I thought odd as the traffic seems to be bad in Simenak, like all the time.  It was bad - very bad.  An hour later, we still were not out of Simenak.  

At about 8, both Oka and I are getting a little anxious.  He asks when my flight leaves, and I remind him.  He says I think we will have to take a motorbike.  I say Oka, we cannot take a motorbike with my luggage, besides I only have 30 minutes left where I can check in.

Oka hops out of the car and starts running down the street - he quickly disappears.  The driver is now frustrated as the road clears, but we cannot go as there is no Oka - tick tock, Oka shows up 5 minutes later - he's really agitated now.  At 8:25, two guys on motorbikes yell at Oka, and he says this is we have to go. 

So we puts me with my handbags on one motorbike, and Oka get on the other with my backpack on his back and holding my suitcase in front of him while the other guy drives.  

Off we go, my guy is good.  He is also nice because he slows down at puddles so as not to splash me, but he doesn't really know where he is going and has to keep stopping and looking for the other guy.  The absurdity of this makes me giggle most of the way to the airport - sometimes we go very fast, sometimes slow, sometimes on the sidewalk or other side of the road - whatever is clear.

We arrive on the outer limits of the airport at 0850 and then Oka runs off for the terminal.  Once in, I can plainly see that the ticket counter is closed, but I rudely interrupt someone to ask if there is anyway they can check me in - the answer is no. 

I return to Oka - who thinks that maybe if he had gone to the ticket counter with me they would have checked me in - I roll my eyes.  He reluctantly calls his office and gets a telling off.  Then he apologises on behalf of all Bali and says, I guess we need to find someplace for you to stay.  As we are leaving the airport, the monitor says that the flight for Singapore is boarding...

The first place he takes me requires too much security.  The security guards practically climbed in the car with me to let us through the gate.  I tell Oka, I am not staying here.  He says there is another place that has a room, but I will have to check out by 12 and then waste time until the next flight - okay I say.  

At 11 pm, we arrive at my new hotel Tandjung Sari in Sanur.  The kitchen has just closed - so there will be no food for me.  I try to change my ticket for the flight tomorrow as the girl at the airport said I could do online, but it won't let me because the flight has already left.  After a frustrating hour and 2 Bali Hais, I give up and go to bed.  

I think; this room is really nice - and it is.  When I get up after a very fitful night, I have 3 e-mails from my travel agent who has sorted the ticket, paid for the change fee and called the hotel in Singapore.  See, it all works out.

Bye Bye Bali

  

Beach time

I have been very lazy since arriving at Tugu.  I have gone into Simanek for a day, but the rest of the time I have spent walking along the beach - no shells, staring out the window, swimming in the pool and reading.  With the exception of the pool, I could have done all of these things in Thurso, I just probably wouldn't have done it because I'd have had THINGS to do.

The beach falls right off into the ocean, the tow of the water is strong, and the waves are constant.  I am a good enough swimmer that I know I shouldn't get in the water, which is as warm as a bathtub.  There are hundreds of surfers in the water at all times.  

Down the beach is a place called Echo beach, and it is definitely a surfer community.  I went down yesterday and got a foot massage and pedicure.  The Balinese are really into massage and have their own style - it hurts sometimes and involves a very strong pressure and holding points.  It was devine and now my toes are bright orange.

There is a creature living in my grass roof that is doing a fairly good job keeping me awake at night.  He's quiet most of the time, but then he screeches and warbles and coos - I think it's a gecko, but it is totally unnerving when you are dropping off to sleep, particularly when he keeps getting closer and closer and closer to your bed.

Rice Paddies and Butterflies

Headed north to the mountains to see the terraced rice paddies - Oka and I did this on our way to the beach.  The area is protected, a World Heritage site.  They have done this to ensure that the land cannot be used for anything else, and it provides a subsidy to the farmers as it is cheaper to import rice then to grow it on Bali.  

They grow two kinds of white rice, black and red rice.  They have also started growing a genetically modified rice - it grows faster and is resistant to pests.  They generally try to get 3 crops per year.

Not sure what I expected, but it is completely gorgeous, and there is a nice breeze, although you can imagine it is incredibly humid.

We walk along the top of the fields - each field has it's own cow, sometimes more than 1 and the cow help the farmer work the field and it also fertilizes the field.

We cut across a terrace.  It was very muddy in places.  I stepped down with a huge splat and squirt mud and cow pat all over Oka's bright white leather sneakers.  I thought this was very funny, but politely did my silent laugh while externally apologising. 

Before we left, Oka suggested we clean our shoes.  I looked at mine covered in mud and said really? And he said really.  So I made a half hearted attempt to clean mine in the provided bathroom, but then came out and said it's no use.  In Oka's went, so I tromped through a little stream - soaking my shoes and then wiped them in the grass, but they were still filthy.  Oka eventually emerged with perfectly white sneakers.

When I got into the car our driver A-Cha was giggling, I imagine my shoe cleaning performance was funny.  After the rice paddies, we stopped at a butterfly park.  I like butterflies, and they have a ton of them, several endangered species that they are breeding.  

We went into the hatchery and the cutest girl started popping butterflies on me.  She would blow on their feet and then they would reach out and grab me.  The first time she did this, she put this very large - what I think is a moth - hairy winged creature on my hand.  It looked up at me with it's furry little face and weird antennas and I squealed, GET IT OFF!  

They thought I was kidding - I was not kidding.  It only lives for 2 days and since it had just hatched it was too weak to fly away.  The cute girl quickly recovered and started popping them on my t-shirt, then she grabs my handbag, camera and sunglasses and started taking pictures - I think she's done this before.  

She was disappointed in this picture; however, I thought it was quite funny.

I'm not in Ubud any more

Yesterday, Oka picked me up, and we headed west.  This was my transfer day.  Oka was very direct and asked me why I changed my plans: I said I just needed less plans. He said you were not sick - no, I laughed, not sick.  He seemed satisfied - Oka worries about Bali Belly, and I am guessing he has had some guests have their trips ruined.

The next hotel is on the beach as I thought you can't go to the tropics and not experience the beach - right? So here I am in Caggnu at a place called Tugu (two - goooo) Bali.  This hotel is something all together different.  

The lobby is grass roofed with giant mahogany pillars and seating and dining area all set up with different antiques.  After checking in, they take me to my room.  All of the rock paths have a water borders filled with koi fish.  

My room is in a wooden two story structure with a grass roof.  My room is up some very narrow circular stairs.  The room is unbelievable.  It's huge, and it has wooden floor with a giant bed, settee and desk area - this would have been fine, right?  

But it also has an L shaped porch area with windows that looks out into the sea and a round metal bathtub filled with cold water and frangipani.

The whole room smells like frangipani.  The beach is black sand that looks grey from a distance.

I took a long walk on the beach and a bath and put on my paprika colored dress and went and had Christmas dinner while listening to the waves.  It was devine - I bet my uncle wishes he knew what I had...

Christmas Drink View

  

My last day in Ubud

Really lazy day planned, after laying in bed and reading, I finally got up and go to Starbucks.  I post yesterday's news and watch the world.  Then I get really ambitious and decide to go to the other side of Ubud, as in the other side of the River.  

This is probably should require a car, but I am not in any hurry.  After about an hour, I stop at this great boutique with the most beautiful gauzy dresses - I am soaked through from the humidity and the walk, but they are nice to me anyway.  I buy two dresses - they are GORGEOUS!

I then hit the art museum.  The building itself is art - they converted a temple so each collection is exhibited in a different buiding.  It starts to pour down rain and I am the only person in the museum - it is beyond nice.  

Balinese art is pretty much what you would expect with a few surprises.  There is a room with photographs taken by an American in the 1920s in Bali - they are wonderful.  

I am now starved and head across the street to Nacho Mama's - Nacho Mama's is famous and associated with Naughty Nuri's down the street.  I have a very good cheese quesadilla with green chili and chicken tacos.  

I am entertained throughout my meal by a large group of Japanese that are eating bar-b-que ribs...with a spoon.  The place is packed, and I have a couple hover over me and my table for a good 15 minutes but then they finally found a place that was not my table.

It is still raining, but not as hard.  I start the walk back and break my flip flop; I stop under a tree and fix my flip flop.  When you walk through Ubud like everyone other person sings - taxi - rain with a dodgy flip flop and know one is around.  Finally, a guy runs across the street and sings taxi and I say, sure - we are both surprised.  

In the evening, I take another stroll through Monkey Forest - they are very funny.  I watch two males that seems to be daring each other to try and cross the road on the power line - they both did it, but one clearly had more grace.  I'd picked out Kebun Bistro for dinner - which looked just like a real bistro - like in France - and had a very expensive dinner.  

The only thing Ubud is missing...a decent glass of wine.  Oh well, Bali Hai, and Merry Christmas!

Sugar and Salt

Up early, and that was not easy because I didn't sleep at all, feeling all bad about Oka - seriously, what am I like - it's my vacation!

I went down to Casa Luna for a tour of the east coast where they would show how palm sugar/caramel and sea salt are made followed by lunch.

My guide Olak and my 3 companions for the day showed up.  There was Greg, Australian math teacher working in Azerbasian as a tax dodge and Patricia and Paul from Utah, who live in Maui when it's cold.   I liked them all immediately, and was glad I wasn't going to have to see them tomorrow...Patricia found me very interesting and tried to pry information out of me most of the day, instead of changing the subject as my mother taught me to do - I just made stuff up - it was very entertaining...for me.

We headed East through the mountains, and it was absolutely gorgeous with mountains, lush green, rice paddies on the flats and coconut trees on the hills.  We stopped at a farm where they harvest nectar from the coconut tree for making palm sugar.  

This is an extraordinarily complicated process.  They climb these trees twice a day every day.  Each tree has 3 flowers and only one flower can be harvested at a time.  Harvesting the nectar from each flower takes 30 days - going up and down the tree twice a day.  The farm we stopped at was run by a guy that had a real job working for the government; he climbed is 23 trees before and after work.

After taking the nectar, his mother boils is down to palm sugar - his wife has tried but not been able to master the technique - bet that's a fun conversation, like everyday.

We spent a long time here.  They showed us the whole process of preparing the flower, climbing the tree, boiling the nectar and making the sugar and caramel.  We had to try everything - of course.  The caramel was amazing, and the resulting palm sugar was sweet and paste-like, which on the face of it probably doesn't sound so good, but it was good.  Olak is a chef at one of the restaurants in town, and he was stirring the nectar like a crazy person.  I thought Mama was actually going to brain him at one point.

As we said our goodbyes, we were each given 500 grams of palm sugar - they didn't try and sell us anything and were generally just very interested in showing us how they live - it was awesome.

We then drove to the coast.  This was a long arduous process because there was an impromtu festival procession going down the very narrow road.  Everyone was all dressed up, and there were a couple of guys in a glittery costume that looked like a horse.  Because of the heat - they had to switch off frequently.

We finally arrived on the sea - black sand.  There were several grass huts with all manner of stuff in it.  This impossibly tiny man then went and collected two buckets of sea water and poured it in the sand in front of the hut.  

He does this several times a day and then when it is sticky, he takes the sand and puts it in a hopper and water is poured over it.  This water is then evaporated, and the salt is revealed.  

Being the rainy season, they could only do the sand procedure on nice days - like the one we were having.  The salt was fairly glorious tasting - Olek assured us it was the black sand that made the difference.  I bought 1 kilogram for $2.

Lunch was at a famous wareng where everyone that knows comes for fish satay.  The place was in the middle of nowhere - seriously, and there were at least 100 people squished under the open air shack - many all dressed in their temple finery having Sunday lunch.  

There is no ordering - you get what they are serving which was rice, fish curry, fish satay - 2 kinds, fish mush wrapped in banana leaf, amazing fried peanuts, long beans, and chili pickle in this incredible salty sauce.  This was very very good - Paul doesn't eat hot food, but he did try and then I think he felt really awful for it.  I didn't think it was that hot, but it was so good - the fried peanuts were amazing.

A big drive back to Ubud, and we were dropped off in the early afternoon.  I went back to my room and took my clothes off so I could lay on the stone floor - very hot today.  After my clothes had dried and I'd rehydrated with some Bali Hai, I went and checked out some of the alleys I hadn't been in yet and then had a quiet dinner at the Cinte Grill - my waitress was hilarious, and I shuffled off to bed laughing.

FREE DAY!!

Had to drag myself out of bed - I am blaming it on a food hangover and so I skip breakfast and scurry down to Starbucks. Seriously, there is no Starbucks in Thurso, but there is one in Ubud.  

It's like every Starbucks except the people are nicer - if you can imagine.  She is just about to ring up my iced soy latte extra strong when I spy a purple piece of cake labeled purple yam coconut cake - well, I have to have one of those, right?

I spend a long time in Starbucks, using their wifi and watching the world go by - the aircon is very good and the seats are very comfortable, but finally the wifi decides I have had enough and kicks me off - permanently.

I wander through street and alleys.  My guidebook said 2 of Asia's best spas are located in Ubud, and I have an appointment at one of them at 3.  I find a place to get my nails done, which is good because they look awful - the trip has done my very glittery manicure in.  

The gal that does them is very nice considering it takes her 20 minutes to get that polish off and she is covered in glitter when she's done.  She has a good laugh when it's over and says perfect for Christmas. 

She asks me if I am here on my own and I say yes.  She is not surprised by this.  This nonreaction is the normal reaction in Bali about being a woman on my own - it is not like this in the UK.  She asks if I am married and I say no, and she giggles and says she isn't either.  Then she asks if I tell people and I said what? and she whispers, how good it is...being single.  I laugh so loud and say I try not to rub it in smug-married faces, but I suspect they know.  She tells me her name is Katherine, and she practices saying mine. 

I walk out with beautiful nails that compliment my pale skin.  I wait for the driver as the spa is supposed to send someone, after 20 minutes, I am thinking something has gone wrong.  Making the appointment was hilarious.  What would you like - a facial and a massage - what kind - I tell him - you want aromatherapy - no - back and forth - finally I say, are you telling me this is all that is available - YES.  10 minutes later he is saying, are you telling me there is no "i" in your name?

He is waiting to open my door when I finally arrive at the Royal Kirana, and my name and appointments are arranged perfectly.  It is quite simply the best massage and facial I have EVER had - it was also probably the most economical.  I have my own terraced house with changing area and open deck and swimming pool - it rains, with thunder, on and off through the treatment.  The whole spa is situated right in this big valley on the river - it is heaven.

 

Back at the hotel, I work up the nerve to call Oka in an attempt to cancel the next 2 days of plans.  I have a whole "it's not you, it's me" speech prepared, but I cannot get through to his cell phone number.  I try a variety of combinations and the office - I cannot get through. In a way, I am pleased and send an e-mail to the office. 

For dinner, I hit Bar Luna and have a giant beer and the weirdest Balinesion tostadas, really I did.  They tasted like cinnamon sugar with iceburg lettuce. On the way back to the hotel, I stop at Cafe Havana.  I swear you wouldn't know you were in Bali - there was a band playing, and it was TOTALLY Buena Vista Social Club - when they stopped playing, they all bussed the tables.  I had fried plantains and a cheese empanada - with a giant beer.  

All in all, it was a very good day.

Who's the real oinker?

Up Monkey Forest Road and around the Ubud Palace is Ubu Oka famous for their roasted pig.  They open at 11 and close at 3, unless they run out of pig before 3.  The place was packed and that's always a good sign.  I got placed at a table with what would turn out as our next generation's lowest common denominator.

I ordered the special, which was a little bit of everything: pork, crispy skin coated in golden fat, rice, long bean saute, sausage, and squiggley bits.  I enjoyed this meal immensely while listening to the most appalling chatter from my companion that was eventually joined by one and then another 18-19 year olds - one recently returned from Venice - it was horrible, laments were had about how hard school is and how fat people with curly hair should be blasted out of the universe.  

I was delighted when another pig (a real pig) arrived on a moped and was hacked up with a cleaver by the lady behind the counter.  This so sickened them that they left - who's the grateful piggy now?

After an afternoon stroll through some of the Ubud shops, it was time to go to the Fire Dance. Oka told me the whole story on the way over, and I swear I almost passed out at the complexity. Oka kept going on and on, and I was like where will this story end - who's the golden deer again?  This dance is the only Balinese Dance that is performed without music; 100 men makes noises that turn into music - as Oka explained this I thought Huh?

But then I saw it and I thought this is really amazing - it really was.  The dancers told the story through mime and I thought this is much better than the word explanation - in Oka's defense, I read the story in the pamphlet they provided and I still didn't understand it, so I think it's safe to say that the problem is me!  I took good video of this and will try posting.

As this was going on, the lights from the performance were attacting bugs - at first a few bugs and then A LOT of bugs.  Big bugs, small bugs - I am not a bug fan.  Suddenly, I noticed that  a GORGEOUS gecko with brown and white spots was eating these bugs. Mouthful after mouthful licking his lips in between.  The German girl beside me was watching a toad perform the same act on the front of the stage.  We showed each other our finds and giggled as each bug disappeared. 

Then I suddenly realized that I had missed the whole second act.  I felt sort of bad, but this gecko was fantastic and funny for some reason.

The performance ended with this guy that came out in a corn husk costume in the shape of a horse.  Then he proceeded to jump in the fire over and over as two guys kept pushing the fire together and squirting it with lighter fluid - seriously.

Back in Ubud, I decided to go out for a beer.  I wasn't really that hungry as I'd had the late lunch and then scarfed down a huge piece of lime pie.  So I went to a cafe and ordered a beer and then before I really knew it, I asked the waitress if I could order Indonesian Rastefel.  She said that is for two and I said I know, but can you do it for one?  She looked at me for a minute and then said - yes with a shrug of the shoulders.

Started with Chicken noodle soup, then an enormous platter came with a pile of rice in the middle, chicken skewers, long beans, cod curry, shredded chicken, chicken curry, duck curry, garlic shrimp, saffron egg, something that tasted like chicken but had the texture of fish, and condiments: pickle, tomato chili and prawn cracker.  I ate this - it was all really good, but somewas better than others.  The duck and the something that tasted like chicken, but had the texture of fish was my favorite.

The waitress came by and asked about dessert and I said, no thank you, and she said okay, not now.  About 20 minutes later, she dropped a plate with fruit and green pancakes with something brown inside (I am guessing coconut).  The pancakes had this strange gummy texture - could not stop eating them.

Ate it all, drank another beer and then rolled myself down the street to my bed and was out like a light.

Temple Time

Slept like a rock.  There was a moment where I thought the frogs were going to keep me awake and just as I was about to shout at them, they shut up - really they did.

This morning I tried the American French toast, instead of yogurt I had muesli with my fruit.  This muesli looked a bit like cooked oatmeal in color and texture, and maybe even tasted like it a little.  It had coconut, raw peanuts and some other stuff; it was very starchy and slightly sweet - I liked it; the French toasted paled in comparison.

Today, dressed in my Balinese finery we headed off to Tirta Empul or the holy spring temple. Again, no idea what to expect so everything was a surprise.  I had purchased the gear the day before as instructed.  This was very interesting as I wear an XL in Bali - seriously.  

We got to this 9th century temple and went to the pools with water that just bubbles up from the ground.  Oka says to get in the pool and go from fountain becoming clean and pure before entering the temple.  It's okay he says, do it in your own way.  

In I go, from fountain to fountain; there are giant koi fish in the pool with me - the water is cold. When I get to the end, I get out and Oka says okay next pool.  A grandfather and daughter lap me, and they are having a good time - I am not sure they are concentrating on getting pure.  There is one more pool and in this pool each of the fountains have swastika on it - interesting I think.   

Soaking wet, it's time to put on dry clothes and go to the temple.  A long conversation is had with some guy and Oka.  Oka reluctantly tells me that they want to take a picture with me - I say no.  Oka is surprised by this - I can't believe he didn't say, go get your own American.

Dry, into the temple we go, make offerings, burn incense, listen to the priest.  You can ask for things in your own way, Oka whispers.  Flowers are clasped in pray and then the priest comes and sprinkles water on your head, in your hands, drink, in your hands, drink, on your head, rice, eat a grain and stick the rest on your head - DONE!

This was a rule breaking adventure as the guide book said absolutely do not get into any fresh water in Bali other than a hotel pool AND don't drink anything but bottled water as the water is not fit to drink - even the Balinese don't drink it.  Oh well, I was getting pure.

We stopped at another temple called Kehen in Bangli.  This is a 13th century temple, and it is much more elaborate then the first one.  As we are climbing the stairs, I reach out for the railing - partially out of habit and partially because the steps are really tall.  A big piece of the stone railing comes away in my hand and tumbled down the stairs.  I am horrified, but Oka says don't worry and marches on.  

In Cumbria, Gill is laughing like a drain - let's give her a minute.

There was an enormous banyon tree in the middle of the temple - enormous, it was amazing.  I mention this tree and Oka sort of dismisses it, and then he looks at it again; and yes, it is a very big tree.  

We have a big discussion about the swastikas as they are here too.  According to Oka, the symbol shows the directions: north, south, east and west and then the arms point to the directions and when the symbol was rotated, it creates a perfect circle.  It's a hindu thing, and there were white tall Indians that were called Arrans - I do not know if this is true, but this is what Oka said.  Oka's credibility was called into question when he asked me if I wanted to stop for some special coffee.  

I said no, again surprising Oka, as I said I was not drinking cat recycled coffee.  So then he tells me this story about a man that was very sick until he drank the coffee made from the beans expelled from a Civit cat - blah blah blah - until I said, Oka this is a tall tale you are telling me and Oka laughed and said maybe, but people spend $300 a pound for this coffee and I said, not this people.  

Shortly after this story, we arrived back at the hotel and I was released upon Ubud...I'd read about their culinary specialty - roast pig.  There was a very famous place near the Ubud temple and although warned off as too soon by Oka, I decided I had to have me some pig

It's not just a name...there are monkey's in that forest

Slept most of the way through the night.  I woke up a couple of times a bit disoriented, but went back to sleep.  Around 8, I pulled myself out of bed, took a shower and went looking for breakfast.  There were words of an American breakfast the night before so I was excited.  The restaurant is an indoor/outdoor room surounded by lush vegetation and far enough of the road to make is disappear.  

I ordered the American with eggs.  This include orange juice - as in the color not the fruit, tasted like sesame seeds and I decided I liked it; coffee - tasty and just what I needed; fruit with yogurt - no recognizable fruit, but it was good, strange textures; banana bread - like change-your-life-I-realize-I've-never-really-eaten-banana-bread; and an omelet heavily laced with dill and rice.  This was all clearly labelled on the menu, but it was still a bit of a surprise.  I decided dill in eggs works, but I had to eat at least half the omelet before I decided this.   The rice well it was awesome, and I imagined that it came out of the rice field I could see from my room.

After breakfast, I went and explored Ubud, which is a cool mountain town filled with artists - according to Oka.  It was a cool little town and everyone was just starting to stir; I guess the Balinese are late risers.  Shopkeepers were putting out their offerings, which consisted of a grass container with flowers, incense, and treats like crackers or candy.  

I discussed these offerings with Oka later in the day and he explained that in Bali there are 3 levels of spirits: low level - can be bad natured; middle level where we are and upper level.  These offerings are made to all levels and as Oka said they are a bit of negotiation - I give you this, if you give me that - mostly for protection. 

After I got oriented, I went to the monkey forest.  I had read on tripadvisor that the monkeys were fat from over feeding and this would not be a good stop - this was not true.  The monkeys were not fat, and they were super cute.

The bigger male monkeys did seem a bit mean and I steered clear of them, but after about an hour I realized that they were okay, and I didn't mind stepping around them when they were in the middle of their inspection.

After the monkey forest, I headed back to the hotel and met Oka.  We had an action packed afternoon: bird park, icat and batik factory, sunset herons roosting and then finally traditonal balinese music and dance, which I can sum up as chang-chang-cha-chang-chang; I can move my index finger separate from my ring finger - imagine early crumping.

The bird park was awesome.  So many cool birds, too many awesome photographs.  The big fruit bats were my favorite, but I never got a good photo of them; there was lots of yawning and stretching.  I quite like these weird pheasants that strangely remind me of Gill and I.

After the dance, I stopped for dinner and had spring rolls, crispy duck and traditional accompaniment: rice, cabbage and long bean saute, and 3 sauces of pickle, sauted onion and tomato chili.  They were all really good and I ate everything, which I think delighted and horrified my lovely waiter.  I finished the meal with traditional black rice pudding that was also full of dates and coconut milk. All-in-all pretty darn tasty, but let's not tell Oka because he said no Balinese food for several days, as you have to ease yourself into it.

I finished my day walking back to my room in the warm rain, dodging cute tree frogs - everyone should walk in the rain in Bali - at least once.

30.5 travelling hours and I'm in Bali

The flight to Amsterdam was short.  KLM has a new chef, and they are really proud of him.  The salad was very good and the dessert - sour apple with vanilla custard - well, that was yummy.  I looked around to see if anyone wasn't going to eat theirs, but everyone did.  I always thinks it's a bit amazing that they can do edible food - they just choose not to for the most part.

24 from leaving the house, and I land in Singapore.  The whole flight was fairly painless, which surprised me as I was sitting at the airport feeling very tired and wondering how I was going to do it, considering I really hadn't even gotten started.  I slept most of the way over - a good 7 hours; I couldn't decide whether this was a good thing or a bad thing - never really flew this direction for this length of time.

Singapore airport was easy - and hard - I didn't have my boarding card for Bali.  So I went to the transfer desk.  There were 14 people behind desk, but only one was working.  The sign said business travellers could check in at the lounge, so I went to the lounge.  After signing in and having a long conversation, I was told that no you have to check in at the transfer desk, so back I went.  It took the gal 15 minutes to get my boarding card, and by the time she handed it to me, there was a long line and very annoyed people behind me.  

Bali airport was a zoo - seriously did you think I was going to say anything else?  A guy grabbed me and all my paperwork and took me over to another guy that had a list with my name on it - special visa/customs exeditor.  The first guy then leaves with all my paperwork and $40 - I felt sick and curious at this turn of events, but then I watched him jump the visa line and go into the booth, change my US dollars and get me a visa.  Then he came back with a big smile, handed me everything and went off to find someone else to help.

After collecting my bag, I headed outside; passing the guy I sat next to for 15 hours trying to explain to the customs official why he had a giant envelope full of money.  Waiting for me outside was Oka who grabbed my bag and took me to a waiting van with cold water, cold air and a cold towel.  Then he proceeded to tell me a bunch of stuff I have no chance of remembering.  

An hour and a half later, we were in Ubud at the Monkey Forest.  Oka got me checked in and said you okay now, see you tomorrow.  I was okay now - my room was cool and there were many strange noises to be heard.  I drank my first Bali Hai, took a bath in my indoor/outdoor bathtub, and was off to bed.

I'm on my way...

6 hours and 271 miles in, and I've made it to the Aberdeen Airport; so far, so good.  

I was up early for my last work out and final packing then drive the dogs to Inverness.  The roads were good and the temperature not too bad, just above zero.  Thatcher made a fuss getting into the car, looking generally terrified, but I chucked him in unceremoniously and off we went.  

3 hours later we pulled into the kennel.  The wife didn't look too pleased, I surmised this was because they weren't expecting anyone.  When I showed them the e-mail accepting my reservation, the husband boomed "my fault" and now the wife wasn't sure who to be mad at - let's be honest, we've all been there.  

The kennel was nice and full of cute dogs; I said hello to everyone - my dumb dogs charged in not even noticing their cute companions.  Thatcher was very excited to be outside and was running around like a maniac, which made the husband laugh.  

When we put him in his kennel he looked like someone had done him wrong - confused at how this supposed adventure had taken such a turn.  Maggie was not bothered - it's all the same to her.  

I said goodbye and the husband said, don't worry I will take them for a walk when they settle down.  Seriously, how can you now worry?  

I continued on to Aberdeen, and this road turned into a complete ballache.  There are millions of roundabouts, and this is supposed to be the main road.  It took me 2.5 hours to go the 86 miles and I frankly think that says it all!  I parked up at the Marrriot where I got a park and ride room, which I thought was very clever.  I got a room and 14 days parking for about half what I'd have paid for long term parking. 

Checked in, they drove me to the airport and I had 3 hours to spare.  So tempting fate, I went to Jason and my table at Wetherspoons and had a chicken burger, onion rings, and french fries - I am guessing the food over the next 15 days will be very different from this - so I decided to live it up.

It's 2230 in Bali right now...

For those who are wondering, I am very excited about this trip.   I am a little horrified to be going so far by myself, but I've travelled on my own often enough that I know I prefer my company over most, but still I sometimes think - I can't believe I am doing this?!?

Packing, packing, packing

You'd think I was going to the moon with the way I have planned this adventure; adventure?, some/most might be saying?  

You see, I have planned a trip over Christmas and New Year.  I haven't mentioned it to i-wore-pinkers because I didn't want a Bunch of worry.  

You know who you are are - but there are some of my regular readers that Are worriers.  Worry, worry, worry, what-if, what-if, what-if...we have discussed this, but it's always the same...it's because I love you...I love lots of people, but I don't do it, so I find this argument flawed.

Like watching the weather, worry accomplishes nothing except anxiety for the generator.  I happen to think it'll make you sick and everything that's going to happen is going to happen regardless.

So Tuesday, I am going to bundle up my puppies and drive them to a fancy kennel in Inverness.  

Maggie is also a worrier

Then I will continue west to Aberdeen to board the first of 3 planes flying south-southwest.  If all goes well, I will be blogging away as I have been practicing my remote blogging with my new app and my new camera that transfers photos via wifi, but we all know that it all might not work for whatever reason - if that's the case, then you will hear from me in the New Year.

Just in case, I wish everyone the happiest of holidays.

PS: Gill (and the State Department) knows where I am...Heehaw!!!!

Caithness Dermabrasion

A raindrop

          Is not a raindrop
                

                  When it hits your face at 35 miles per hour

Cote Du Nord - a Christmas Party

'Tis the season for Christmas Parties.  I wanted to do something nice for the families that have lived far from home this year before we all scattered for the holiday break.

Bo had told me about this place in Bettyhill where a Doctor sometimes opens up his home and prepares fantastic food.   It was closed for the season, but Bo called and asked if he would do dinner for us and he agreed - we wrangled with dates, but finally found one.  

On a windy wet Saturday, we all climbed into taxis and headed west into Sutherland.  The taxi driver didn't know where we were going, and I thought this strange because how could we know about something that a local didn't know about, but just before I lost my last bar on the phone, I got the address.

Cote Du Nord as the doctor calls his restaurant is one room of his house painted in every shade of blue - it's lovely.  Our group was just over the maximum number he takes so we were tightly packed into the room.  

He started us off with Kir Royale and Gin and Tonics with little salt cod pastries - excellent start.

Our next course came out one at a time with an apology that the course was very delicate and had to be carried one at a time.  I said, that looks like an egg yolk, everyone else guessed it was stuff other than an egg yolk until they had one in front of them.

After everyone was served, the chef would come out and tell us what we were about the eat.  This was an egg yolk cooked from the inside out - hot mushroom soup was injected into the center of the yolk to 'cook' it, and then a little piece of truffle was put on the top.  We were instructed to put it our mouth and then bite down to release the mushroom flavor.

To be fair, the flavor was good, but the texture was not

We all did as we were told, and there were a variety of faces made.  Mine made me cry a little bit, and Jason found this very funny.

Our next course was haggis on a cracker topped with herring and a glass of herring broth topped with haggis foam.  Kyler announced that he loved the cracker - so around the table many crackers went.  I tried my 'broth' and announced that my daddy would call that chum.  

Brad immediately took a spoon and whipped up his broth and foam creating something new - I felt sick and grateful when Tanner announced that the broth was delicious, so around the table my broth went.

Scottish surf and turf

Our next course arrived, and I was very pleased because I thought to myself - that is a scallop, and it was served with scallop ceviche, carrot puree and a little drizzle of vinaigrette.

Beautiful and delicious

Then came our fish course: Rock turbot with bacon and brown butter, parsnip puree and shavings, brown butter crumble and brussel sprouts.

Ooh, Scottish surf and hoof

We were very traditional and wore our hats from our Christmas crackers, and Bo's tradition of Christmas glasses, which covered the wearer in Christmas glitter.

Next course: pork belly with black pudding, cauliflower, pork crackling bon bon and kidney and liver croquette.  The bon bon took some getting used to as Christine said it did have the texture of divinity, but it was filled with crackling, which most of us at the table really loved.  This course really benefited from taking a little piece of everything in each bite - to marry the flavors.

Porky Goodness

Meat course: ribeye steak, braised oxtail on a Scottish pancake and kale.  Very tasty, but it was at this point in the meal when I could feel my creamy, fat-laden blood coursing through my body.

Kale paint

Oooh dessert course, out came rosemary creme brulee.  The chef came out with a spray bottle that he sprayed onto your sugar, and then he lit the whole thing, saying you can eat it when the flames go away.  We all wondered if we would be able to taste the rosemary and you definitely could - without a doubt THE BEST CREME BRULEE I have EVER eaten. 

This made the whole room smell lovely and sugary - aka Willy Wonka Style

Final course, Old Pulteney ice cream, Old Pulteney jelly, old Pulteney crumble with powdered smoke and pulled sugar.  The smoke was really smoky, but it did remind you of Old Pulteney.

I swear this is pulled sugar and not a dog hair - they had 4 dogs

Meal completed; we called our taxis, said our thank you's and goodbyes, and wished each other very happy holidays.  

What a special way to celebrate with such incredible special people.