A Brand New Year!!!

Woke up to my last day in Singapore on the first day of the year.

I didn't really have much of a plan and made a slow start, packing up all of my things for almost the last time.  I checked my bags, checked out and went into Chinatown.

I wandered up the Ann Siang Hill and over to the Thian Hock Keng Temple.  This is an old temple built in the Chinese southern style - which means no nails.  it was really beautiful but the Budda Relic Temple is still my favorite.

I'd gone by the Sri Mariamman Temple yesterday, but wasn't up for going in, so I went back today.  You have to take your shoes off and yesterday the racks were full.  Today, the racks were full and shoes were lined up around the block!  I still didn't go in. 

Instead, I went to the oldest coffee shop in Chinatown and had iced coffee and kaya toast - their specialities.  The coffee was incredibly thick and sweet, which is usually not my thing, but I liked it.  The toast is hard to explain.  It said soft on the inside, crispy on the outside and it was - it was ladden with butter and some sort of fruit butter, but I couldn't tell you what fruit.  It was fantastic.

After my late breakfast, I went to find the metro to head to the Peranakan museum.  I'd used taxi's the day before because I was in a dress and heels,  but today I slummed it.  As you can imagine, their metro is pristine.  

Peranakan's are people that are descended from an ethnic Chinese father and a Malay, Indonesian or Indian mother.  Those Chinese got around! 

The culture is all about combining the two and the musuem was fairly amazing.  The whole first floor was interviews with Peranakan's who were asked what it means to be Peranakan - although all their answers were slightly different; it was about good food, family and tradition - whatever that tradition might be.

I ate in the cafe associated with the museum and had Laksa, which turned out to be Peranakan ramen.  The gal was surprised when I order it.  The noodles were perfect and the broth was not clear - different from last night.  I'd guess is had coconut milk in it and lots of chili - it was awesome.

After the musuem, I metroed over to the Singapore Flyer - its the tallest Ferris wheel in the world at 165 meters.  I got right on, and it is the very best way to see the city and how it is also connected to the water.

As I was headed back from the flyer, I saw this lady with a black bag with a familiar squiggle on it, and I thought OMG! there is a Sephora here.  So I got out my blackberry and googled it and sure enough it's the second largest Sephora - like anywhere - so I hailed a cab.  After a long wander through Sephora with several try ons and subsequent clean ups, I had what I needed, which turned out to be a fairly small pile for me and really only the things you can't get in the UK.

I took the metro back to Chinatown because I had a few important things left to do.  After pushing shoving my way through the subway, I arrived in Chinatown, and it was packed.  So, I picked a plastic seat and order my chili crab - a Singapore delicacy and a must have.  

I'd had chili crab with Gill when we were in New York at a place called the Fatty Crab.  This was just as good, but not better - the sauce was thicker.  I'd brought a stockpile of napkins, and it turned out I needed each one.

After that, I wandered down a couple of booths and ordered crispy honey fried baby squid - I couldn't finish it, but it was awfully good.  

By this time, I needed to collect my luggage and roll myself to the airport, and this time, my transportation really was just a ride to the airport.

Singapore

There are two things to do in Singapore: shopping and eating and today, I did both.  Honestly, it does seem like Singapore is one lavish mall after another - huge malls with every designer you ever heard about and then some that you haven't.  The prices are very high.  Although I see lots of people, I don't really see any shopping bags.

I started the day by wandering down to the Budda Tooth Relic Temple.  There was a service going on, and it was really incredible - in the room of 100 buddas.  Each alcove have a budda, but the hands were in different positions.  

After the temple, I headed off the Raffles Hotel.  Everyone said, you HAVE to go to Raffles and have a Singpore Sling.  So I went to Raffles, and it is a beautiful old hotel.  I did not want a $30 Singapore Sling at 10 am, so instead I went to Tang's bakery in Raffles and had a pistachio/cranberry croissant, and it was very tasty.

Then I hit the malls.  They were crazy; there are no straight lines - just nooks and crannies.  I decided I would do no more that 2 malls and that is exactly what I did.  Nothing really tempted me.  I purchased an umbrella because it was POURING down rain and some face cleanser that I cannot get in the UK. 

Then I had a manicure and pedicure - at the same time - at a place called Snails, which I thought was very funny for a manicure place, but was highly recommended by my book.  Having two people work on your fingers and toes was sort of overwhelming, and I responded by nearly falling asleep.  Two late nights are catching up to me.

It was still pouring so I went to a hotel to catch a cab.  There was a nasty lady there who's job it was to make sure that people like me didn't stand in the taxi queue.  She asked me if I was staying there and I looked her right in the eye and said yes and she said what is your, room number, I told her it was 224 and then she said where are you going and I said Chinatown, and she hurumphed and said okay then - what kind of a job is that?

Good thing I did too because my taxi driver was awesome.  He was super chatty and very impressed that I was staying at the Scarlet Hotel in Chinatown; he was born right down the street.  The Scarlet Hotel is very interesting running a block on a hill so the hallway mirrors the hill and slopes fairly dramatically.  I suspect some revellers tonight will find this funny.

I told him I was going to the food street for dinner as I plan to eat this way each day - it's THE way to eat in Singapore.  He says you must not eat on the street and instead should go all the way down the street and take an escalator up and you'll find hundreds of vendors - that's where all the local people eat and it's half the price.  He'd eaten there the night before - he gave me the directions 3 times and said do you got, really got it?  

I got it.

So at 1930, I headed through the food street to the end, and there was this large parking structure, and sure enough there was an escalator - so on I got.  At the top, there were hundreds of vendors serving food, and there were hundreds of people eating.  You go to a vendor, get what you want and then pick a seat.  Sounds like a food court, and it is really.

I wandered around a long time looking at all of the food.  I was the only white person in the joint.  My wandering around was causing a stir, so I finally picked a place and got dumplings and homemade ramen with a beer for $3.  She asked if I wanted chili - I did and then I ate it.  I ate all my noodles with my chopsticks.  I was awesome.

After this was gone, I decided I could still eat; so I went back to a booth that had had a really long line - all they sold was chicken and rice.  My taxi driver had mentioned chicken and rice and given all of the incredible smells and dishes it was hard to imagine why this was the ONLY stall with a line.  So I got in it.  The owners tried to ignore me for a little while, but then when I refused to leave, they gave me a plate of rice with chicken for $2.50.  

It was so good - I wish I could explain why, but I cannot. Unfortunately, before I took my first bite, I dropped my chopsticks on the floor.  I picked them up and scooped in my first bite and thought - it's good to challenge your immune system once in a while.

When I returned my tray to the bottom of the pile - all 3 in the stall (I am guessing sisters and a husband) sang, Thanks Lah!  I guess I'd earned my chicken rice.

Who would have wanted to miss this...

I sit down for a well-deserved and needed breakfast out on the patio.  Sanur has a white beach and lots of it.  I am waiting for my coffee, and I go what is behind that post, so I move my head and see...well, it's the tallest mountain/volcano in Bali.

The water is shallow and there are all sorts of people, swimming, fishing, just sitting in the water and enjoying - and most interestingly, they are Balinese.  Well mostly, Balinese with some Japanese thrown in for good measure.  

The beach is covered with coral pieces.  I had myself some sushi at Minami, which had a lot of good reviews and I'd never managed to make it over there when I was in Ubud - bonus!

After lunch, Oka picked me up and asked me what I wanted to do.  We went through our options and agreed the orchid garden.  Oka got me in and then left me with a guide - who was extremely interesting and made my visit.  

He's at university for Botany, and he has a whole routine as we went through the garden.  His English is perfect - he learned by listening to music. He took a lot of pictures of me and honestly knew how to use my camera better than I did.  

Afterward, I wandered around the park on my own and then sat down in the cafe for a water.  He came over and we had a long chat.

There was this gorgeous little girl in the cafe - I mentioned her, and he said she was part Indian and then he launched into this whole explanation about how the Balinese view beauty.  He says they covet light skin and dimples.  You can only be pretty if you have light skin and she didn't.  She had a nice smile so he said she could be nice, but not pretty, and just because you have a nice smile, it doesn't mean you are nice, unless you have dimples.  

It made me wonder how we have managed to convince the world light skin is best - it does explain the girl's fascination with my ultra-white skin during my manicure in Ubud last week...I find this whole concept sort of depressing.

After the orchid garden, we went to Jamberon Beach and then the airport.  I am here very early, but I convinced Oka I could entertain myself at Starbucks and so far, I have.  

I also reassured him AGAIN that there are lots worse places to be stuck an extra day then in Bali - besides, it's saved me a whole day burning up my plastic in Singapore - yeehaw!

It was just supposed to be a ride to the airport

Last day in Bali, I had some big plans of walk on the beach, swim in the pool and facial - I know my life, right?

The hotel had an airport transportation service as part of the room, but I also had this set up through Oka.  So Oka was supposed to come and get me at 6 pm for my 9:30 pm flight, simple?

At 1730, I headed downstairs and settled my bill and got my bags brought down.  I was told that Oka would be late because there was a traffic accident on the road.  I sat in the lobby and waited and got devoured by mosquitos - covered in red welts.

Oka was late, but not that bad maybe 20 minutes.  We had a new driver that disappeared for about 10 minutes - Oka was getting frustrated.  We finally get everyone in the van, and we are off - it's about 15-20 miles to the airport.  

Knowing the traffic was bad, they looked for a new route, which involved taking a paved path through a rice paddy that was not designed for a van and had big bollards up at the entry and exit to prevent vehicles from getting onto it.  It took some very careful driving to get on the 'road' and then once we were on it - well, there were piles of bricks, people, mopeds...

Then they decided to drive though Simenak - which I thought odd as the traffic seems to be bad in Simenak, like all the time.  It was bad - very bad.  An hour later, we still were not out of Simenak.  

At about 8, both Oka and I are getting a little anxious.  He asks when my flight leaves, and I remind him.  He says I think we will have to take a motorbike.  I say Oka, we cannot take a motorbike with my luggage, besides I only have 30 minutes left where I can check in.

Oka hops out of the car and starts running down the street - he quickly disappears.  The driver is now frustrated as the road clears, but we cannot go as there is no Oka - tick tock, Oka shows up 5 minutes later - he's really agitated now.  At 8:25, two guys on motorbikes yell at Oka, and he says this is we have to go. 

So we puts me with my handbags on one motorbike, and Oka get on the other with my backpack on his back and holding my suitcase in front of him while the other guy drives.  

Off we go, my guy is good.  He is also nice because he slows down at puddles so as not to splash me, but he doesn't really know where he is going and has to keep stopping and looking for the other guy.  The absurdity of this makes me giggle most of the way to the airport - sometimes we go very fast, sometimes slow, sometimes on the sidewalk or other side of the road - whatever is clear.

We arrive on the outer limits of the airport at 0850 and then Oka runs off for the terminal.  Once in, I can plainly see that the ticket counter is closed, but I rudely interrupt someone to ask if there is anyway they can check me in - the answer is no. 

I return to Oka - who thinks that maybe if he had gone to the ticket counter with me they would have checked me in - I roll my eyes.  He reluctantly calls his office and gets a telling off.  Then he apologises on behalf of all Bali and says, I guess we need to find someplace for you to stay.  As we are leaving the airport, the monitor says that the flight for Singapore is boarding...

The first place he takes me requires too much security.  The security guards practically climbed in the car with me to let us through the gate.  I tell Oka, I am not staying here.  He says there is another place that has a room, but I will have to check out by 12 and then waste time until the next flight - okay I say.  

At 11 pm, we arrive at my new hotel Tandjung Sari in Sanur.  The kitchen has just closed - so there will be no food for me.  I try to change my ticket for the flight tomorrow as the girl at the airport said I could do online, but it won't let me because the flight has already left.  After a frustrating hour and 2 Bali Hais, I give up and go to bed.  

I think; this room is really nice - and it is.  When I get up after a very fitful night, I have 3 e-mails from my travel agent who has sorted the ticket, paid for the change fee and called the hotel in Singapore.  See, it all works out.

Bye Bye Bali

  

Beach time

I have been very lazy since arriving at Tugu.  I have gone into Simanek for a day, but the rest of the time I have spent walking along the beach - no shells, staring out the window, swimming in the pool and reading.  With the exception of the pool, I could have done all of these things in Thurso, I just probably wouldn't have done it because I'd have had THINGS to do.

The beach falls right off into the ocean, the tow of the water is strong, and the waves are constant.  I am a good enough swimmer that I know I shouldn't get in the water, which is as warm as a bathtub.  There are hundreds of surfers in the water at all times.  

Down the beach is a place called Echo beach, and it is definitely a surfer community.  I went down yesterday and got a foot massage and pedicure.  The Balinese are really into massage and have their own style - it hurts sometimes and involves a very strong pressure and holding points.  It was devine and now my toes are bright orange.

There is a creature living in my grass roof that is doing a fairly good job keeping me awake at night.  He's quiet most of the time, but then he screeches and warbles and coos - I think it's a gecko, but it is totally unnerving when you are dropping off to sleep, particularly when he keeps getting closer and closer and closer to your bed.

Rice Paddies and Butterflies

Headed north to the mountains to see the terraced rice paddies - Oka and I did this on our way to the beach.  The area is protected, a World Heritage site.  They have done this to ensure that the land cannot be used for anything else, and it provides a subsidy to the farmers as it is cheaper to import rice then to grow it on Bali.  

They grow two kinds of white rice, black and red rice.  They have also started growing a genetically modified rice - it grows faster and is resistant to pests.  They generally try to get 3 crops per year.

Not sure what I expected, but it is completely gorgeous, and there is a nice breeze, although you can imagine it is incredibly humid.

We walk along the top of the fields - each field has it's own cow, sometimes more than 1 and the cow help the farmer work the field and it also fertilizes the field.

We cut across a terrace.  It was very muddy in places.  I stepped down with a huge splat and squirt mud and cow pat all over Oka's bright white leather sneakers.  I thought this was very funny, but politely did my silent laugh while externally apologising. 

Before we left, Oka suggested we clean our shoes.  I looked at mine covered in mud and said really? And he said really.  So I made a half hearted attempt to clean mine in the provided bathroom, but then came out and said it's no use.  In Oka's went, so I tromped through a little stream - soaking my shoes and then wiped them in the grass, but they were still filthy.  Oka eventually emerged with perfectly white sneakers.

When I got into the car our driver A-Cha was giggling, I imagine my shoe cleaning performance was funny.  After the rice paddies, we stopped at a butterfly park.  I like butterflies, and they have a ton of them, several endangered species that they are breeding.  

We went into the hatchery and the cutest girl started popping butterflies on me.  She would blow on their feet and then they would reach out and grab me.  The first time she did this, she put this very large - what I think is a moth - hairy winged creature on my hand.  It looked up at me with it's furry little face and weird antennas and I squealed, GET IT OFF!  

They thought I was kidding - I was not kidding.  It only lives for 2 days and since it had just hatched it was too weak to fly away.  The cute girl quickly recovered and started popping them on my t-shirt, then she grabs my handbag, camera and sunglasses and started taking pictures - I think she's done this before.  

She was disappointed in this picture; however, I thought it was quite funny.